I’m not a big fan of fall and winter, I’ll admit it.  Like so many others, I enjoy the milder climate that we have here and I can get a little down when the days get shorter and those chilly breezes start coming at us from over the ocean.  Brrr!  The one advantage to the cooler weather is that it’s a great time for some of my favorite soups and stews.

In theory, a soup can be any combination of vegetables, fish, or meat that is cooked in a liquid.  Thinner soups (consommes, nages, bouillions, and bisques) are considered to be soups, while thicker soups (daubes, burgoo, jumbalaya, and purloo) are defined as stews.  They can be served hot or cold—like vicchysoisse and gazpacho. And soup is universal:  Every culture on the planet has its own spin on soups and stews.  From Malaysian laksa to Russian borscht, from French blanquettes to Italian Ribollitas, from New England clam chowder to New Orleans gumbo,  soup is everywhere.

Buckwheat Noodle Soup with Five-Spice Roast Pork

If you want to make this soup properly, you may want to make a pilgrimage into Wilmington first, and go visit one of my favorite places to shop, the Saigon Market on Kerr Avenue in Kerr Station Village.  While you may be able to find soba noodles, star anise, hoisin, and five-spice-powder at Harris Teeter, the quality of the products at Saigon is often better and the price lower.  All four of these ingredients will keep for a long time in your pantry.  I think I’ve had my bag of star anise for five years, and it’s still going strong.  Of all of the soba noodles, the buckwheat ones are my favorite.

When eating this soup, you will want to opt for both a fork and a spoon, or try your hand at using chopsticks, which is the traditional way to eat it.

1 T hoisin sauce
1 t sugar
1 ½ t  Chinese five-spice powder
1 T plus 1 t soy sauce
¾ lbs trimmed boneless pork loin
½ c shittake mushrooms, stems removed, sliced
1 T olive oil
½ c carrots, julienned
2 T ginger, grated
2 large garlic cloves, minced
8 c chicken broth
3 star anise, whole
½ lb dried buckwheat soba noodles
2 c baby spinach

In a small bowl, combine hoisin, sugar, five spice powder, and 1 teaspoon soy sauce.  Brush pork with hoisin mixture and roast in a 350-degree oven until a thermometer inserted in the center reads 140 degrees, about 25 minutes.  Let pork stand for about 10 minutes, then cut crosswise into thin slices and cut slices into ½-inch strips.

In a large saucepan, heat olive oil and add mushrooms and carrots.  Sauté about 3 minutes, then add ginger and garlic.  Sauté for about another minute, making sure not to burn the garlic.  Add chicken broth, star anise and remaining tablespoon of soy sauce.  Bring to a simmer, then remove from heat and let steep for about 30 minutes.

While broth is steeping, bring about 4 quarts of water to a boil.  Add buckwheat noodles and let cook about five to six minutes or until just tender.  Drain noodles in colander and rinse with cold water.

Remove star anise from broth and bring back to a boil.  Simmer for a few minutes, then add baby spinach, pork and noodles.  

Serves 4

Pumpkin Tortelloni Soup

Autumn makes me smile because I know it’s only a matter of time before I make this soup.  I usually make a big batch of these tortelloni and freeze them so that I can make it anytime.  The tortelloni are also great if you poach them for a few minutes in boiling water, then shake them to remove excess water and saute the tortelloni and some sage leaves in butter.  Sprinkle with a little freshly grated parmesan, and serve.  It’s an impressive first course.  

1 1/2 c packed pumpkin or roasted and mashed butternut squash
1/2 c ricotta cheese
1/4 c parmesan cheese
1 egg
2 t fresh sage, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
Wonton wrappers
1 tablespoon corn starch
1/4 c cold water
Additional corn starch for sprinkling
6 c chicken broth
12 sage leaves

 

 

Combine pumpkin or butternut squash in a bowl with ricotta, parmesan, egg, and 2 teaspoons fresh sage.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  In another bowl, combine corn starch and water.  Brush the edges of a wrapper with corn starch mixture.  Place a scant tablespoon of the pumpkin filling in the middle of the wrapper and fold to form a triangle.  Press edges together.

 Sprinkle the bottom of a flat storage container with corn starch.  Place the tortellini in container.  When that layer is full, sprinkle with more corn starch and a layer of plastic wrap.  Continue filling container until you are out of filling or wrappers.

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bring chicken broth to a boil.  Add sage leaves.  Drop tortelloni into boiling broth and simmer for about three minutes.  Serve immediately. 

Makes a whole lot of tortelloni (enough to freeze), and soup for about four people.

Lentil Stew with Lamb and Mint

There is nothing better than lentil soup on a rainy winter day.  I prefer it with the lamb leg cubes, but ground lamb will do in a pinch.  If you’re not a lamb lover, this stew works well with sausage or beef.  

2 T olive oil
1 lb lamb — ground lamb or lamb leg cubes
3 large celery stalks, chopped
2 large parsnips, peeled & chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1 T chopped fresh garlic
1 lb lentils
9 c beef or chicken broth
3.5 c canned diced tomatoes in juice (or 1 28-oz can)
1 T ground cumin
1/2 c chopped fresh mint, divided

Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium-high heat.  Add lamb, celery, parsnips, onion, and garlic.  Sauté until vegetables are almost tender and lamb is cooked through and beginning to brown, about 15 minutes.  Add lentils and stir one minute.  Add 7 cups broth, tomatoes, and cumin.  Bring soup to a boil.  Reduce heat to medium low.  Cover and simmer until lentils are tender, about 40 minutes.

Transfer 2 cups soup to blender, add 1/4 cup mint and puree until smooth; return to same pot.  Season stew with salt and pepper and add broth to thin if desired.  Ladle into bowls.  Sprinkle with remaining mint.

Makes 10-12 cups.

Duck Purloo

Purloo is a traditional low country South Carolina dish that is similar to jambalaya or paella in that it contains almost any combination of rice, vegetables, meat, or poultry.  Sometimes it includes seafood as well.  I’ve seen this spelled in a variety of ways:  perlo, perlau or pilau, and my South Carolinian sous chef informs me that I mispronounce it every time I say it.  Frankly, I don’t care what it’s called.  It’s delicious and pretty easy to make. 

I do know that if you overcook the rice, it’s not a purloo anymore.  It’s a bog.  No matter.  Still tastes great!

1 lb boneless duck breast, skin removed
4 c chicken broth
1 lb bulk pork sausage (such as Jimmy Dean, not links)
½ lb kielbasa, cut into ¼-inch pieces
½ t black pepper
¼ t dried hot red pepper flakes
2 large onions, chopped
1 yellow bell pepper, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 c white mushrooms, sliced
½ t salt
1 ½ c long-grain white rice
4 T Italian parsley, chopped

Put duck breast in a heavy pot and add broth.  Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until duck is very tender when pierced with a fork, about forty-five minutes.  Transfer duck to a bowl and let cool until it is easier to handle.  Shred meat and set aside. 

In a soup pot, crumble breakfast sausage and cook until browned.  Add kielbasa, pepper, red pepper flakes, onion, red and yellow pepper, and cook until onions and peppers are softened, about 10 minutes.  Add mushrooms and cook, stirring often, about 3 more minutes.  Add reserved duck and broth to pot and bring to a boil.  Add rice and simmer, covered, stirring occassionally, for about 20 minutes or until rice is tender.  Remove from heat and let stand, covered, about 15 minutes.  Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper.

Serves 6 to 8 

Beth Flaherty is the Chef/Owner of Coriander’s Fine Foods & Catering at 17011 Highway 17 North in Hampstead. Phone:  (910) 270-3413, e-mail:  corianco@aol.com, website:  www.corianderscatering.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cooking Terms:

Blanquette:  [blahn- KEHT]  A rich cream-based stew with veal or chicken, mushrooms, and pearl onions. 

Bouquet garni:  [boo-KAY gahr-NEE] A bunch of herbs (the classic trio being parsley, thyme, and bay leaf) either tied together or placed in a cheesecloth bag and used to flavor soups, stews, and broths.  Tying or bagging the herbs allows for their easy removal before the dish is served.

Daube:  [dohb]  A classic French dish made with beef, red wine, and vegetables, braised together for a number of hours.

Five-spice-powder:  A mixture of five ground spices, usually equal parts of cinnamon, cloves, fennel seed, star anise, and Szechuan peppercorns.  Check in the spice aisle of your supermarket or Asian food market.

Mirepoix:  [mihr-PWAH]  A mixture of diced carrots, onions, celery, and herbs sautéed in butter.  This is the flavor base for many stews, soups, and sauces.

Mise en Place:  [MEES-en-plahs]  A French term for having all of your ingredients and equipment ready to cook.

Soba Noodles:  A Japanese noodle made from buckwheat and wheat flour, which gives it a dark brownish-gray color.  Chasoba noodles are a variation of the noodle made with green tea.

Star Anise:  A star-shaped dark brown pod that contains a pea-sized seed in each of its eight segments.  Its flavor is slightly more bitter than regular anise.  It can be found in Asian markets and some supermarkets.

Click HERE for Coriander's Cooking Class schedule!