Story by Arno Buchtman
Photos Courtesy of Arno Buchtman, Bannerman Vineyard, The Country Squire Winery, and Duplin Winery

Topsail Island, NC - Crisp autumn breezes lead to thoughts of harvest.  And while Sneads Ferry’s winery is long gone (except for the signs marking Winery Road), Topsail residents can take a short drive to enjoy the fruit of the vine at three nearby destinations in our own Wine Country within Pender and neighboring Duplin County.  None are more than an hour’s drive and if you plan your route well you can visit all three in a single day.

BANNERMAN VINEYARD

The closest is the winery at Bannerman Vineyard on Stag Park Road, just ten minutes outside of Burgaw off Highway 53. The Bannerman family has been cultivating muscadine (or scuppernong) grapes since 1973, continuing a tradition that dates back to the first English settlements.

(Left) Chris Bannerman - In fact, back in 1840, North Carolina was the most productive wine producing state in the Union and at the turn of the 20th Century, twenty-five wineries operated statewide.  At their Wilmington winery built in 1902, the Sol Bear family had the capacity to turn out 200,000 gallons a year.  The great experiment of Prohibition took its toll but now grape-growing and wine-making is again a vibrant practice in the Tar Heel State.

As for Pender’s own modern-day vineyard, Scott Bannerman started it up on land formerly used to grow tobacco. The idea was to provide grapes for public picking and consumption and to sell to wineries elsewhere.

The century-old tobacco barn became a repository for the grape-selling retail business and even today people still flock from all over to pick five different varieties of grapes and take them home, especially in September and October.  You can pick grapes anytime after 9 a.m. on weekdays and Saturdays, and in the afternoons on Sundays, anytime after September 1, as long as the season lasts.

“All grapes are hand-picked for our wines; we don’t use machines,” says Scott Bannerman, Scott Bannerman’s grandson, who today runs most of the winery operations with his mom, Colleen Bannerman.

The Bannerman label wines are available for perusal in the air-conditioned tasting room and gift shop adjacent to the actual winery where nine different varieties are produced (white, red, and blush), all from native muscadine grapes, except the one made mostly from local blueberries.

Wine-tastings (at no charge) are generally done from 12 noon and 4 p.m. from Wednesday through Saturday and otherwise by appointment.  The gift shop also has unusual items like soy candles, “lighted bottles,” and of course official Bannerman wine glasses.  To purchase enjoyable Bannerman wines (such as Airlie Red Oak, Sweet Bay Blush, and Weeping Willow), you can either do so directly at the winery or at a local event such as the Poplar Grove Farmer’s Market (every Wednesday in Scotts Hill), the Riverside Farmer’s Market in Wilmington (Saturday mornings), or venues like the Spot Festival, Seafood Festival (Morehead City), and Autumn With Topsail.

For more information, call 259-5474 or visit online at www.Bannermanvineyard.com, where you can also order Bannerman wines directly.

DUPLIN WINERY

 

 

 

 

 

 

The granddaddy of area wineries is now North Carolina’s largest—Duplin Winery, headquartered in downtown Rose Hill on U.S. Highway 117.  Take that highway directly from Burgaw if you have visited Bannerman’s first or take I-40 if you so choose.

Folks come from miles away (all 50 states, most provinces of Canada and numerous foreign countries) for the complete treatment at Duplin Winery.  Many begin with an introductory video in the visitors’ center, a tour of the winery and vineyards, an extended stay in the spacious gift shop and tasting bar, and a meal or even a dinner theater show at The Bistro.

The Fussell family started it all in 1976 when they had to figure out what to do with a bumper crop of grapes after a winery in the Finger Lakes region of New York told the Fussells that their North Carolina grapes were no longer needed.  From modest beginnings, Duplin Winery has become an institution, with its product available in numerous retail outlets, including Lighthouse Beer & Wine in Surf City.  It’s also the largest muscadine winery in the world (producing around 260,000 cases annually) and it’s a place where the tour buses always stop from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays.

Grapes are put to use from 940 acres of vineyards across three states and the place where the wine is actually made is now a 99,000 state-of-the-art square foot production facility. So count on spending some time at Duplin Winery.

With about twenty varieties of wines (with new ones constantly being added) and a Wine Club so you can get them sent to your home directly (at a discounted price), Duplin Winery is truly a people’s choice for its quality and (mostly) sweet wines.  Nearly everyone is familiar with Hatteras Red, Duplin Winery’s Magnolia varieties, and its classic Scuppernong.  Go to the website at www.duplinwinery.com and you will see that Duplin Winery has been repeatedly honored with accolades and awards for its products.this fall, fellow travelers of the grape can look for a new Red called Ten (produced in conjunction with the Carolina Hurricanes NHL team) and two new blends mixing Muscadine and Niagara grapes.

(Left) The Fussells - And in the future – Duplin Winery has already cleared land for a new visitor’s center off I-40—while its current headquarters will be continued as a place to sample and produce estate and boutique wines now in development.

“We have been truly blessed,” said Jonathan Fussell who heads up company marketing along with another half-dozen family members who are involved with one project or another at Duplin Winery including president and founder David Fussell. Sometimes you can even catch Jonathan giving tours himself in this hands-on operation.  For more info call 1-800-774-9634.

 

From Duplin Winery, venture a couple exits up I-40 (or better yet Highways 117 and NC 11), loop through Kenansville or Warsaw and you will eventually find yourself at The Country Squire. From the Topsail area directly – it is a beautiful winding drive up N.C. 50.

 

 

THE COUNTRY SQUIRE WINERY

Hear someone utter the words, “The Country Squire” and what comes to mind is Duplin County’s most prestigious restaurant—a dining tradition in a historical setting since 1961.  Located in a rambling restaurant and country inn complex on Highway 50 and Business 24, between Kenansville and Warsaw, The Squire serves up Old World Hospitality daily.

It is also now the home to the area’s newest winery (The Country Squire Winery of course) and for the past year, the creations of Loraine Lennon Smith have been garnering raves. In fact, earlier this year, Country Squire wines were the ones exclusively served up at The Sun Fest in Surf City not far from where Iris has her own vacation abode on Topsail Island.

Like other local wineries, The Country Squire is a family-owned operation—and many of its employees have been there for a generation or more.  Iris Lennon is the Scottish matriarch and a couple of years ago she and her daughter Loraine came up with the idea of converting a seldom-used dining area (originally part of an 18th century home) into a winery, Tartan Tasting Room, and gift shop.  Loraine’s daughter Addison also assists in the winery operation and works at the restaurant, too.

To provide an alternative to the products offered at other North Carolina wineries (other than the mountains), Lennon’s wine is made from Vinifra grapes varietals such as Court Yard Maiden Riesling, Jester’s Folly Pinot Grigio, and Pride of Scotland Chardonnay.  The Squire’s wine list will also feature a muscadine wine in the Fall.  The descriptions of the wines are right on her website at www.countrysquirewinery.com, and much of the Country Squire product is actually named after dining rooms and other locations at The Country Squire.

Recently the Country Squire planted its grape vines for a new onsite vineyard (Carlos and Noble varieties) and within a few years, it will also carry native Muscadine product from its own backyard.

“We’ve already gotten quite a following,” says Lennon, who has become well-known for her radio and TV commercials. She says that this fall The Country Squire Winery will roll out a new merlot, Highland Mary, named after her late mother.  Locally, Country Squire wines are available at Swizzle Stix in Surf City (look for the Scottich castle on the bottles) but taking the enjoyable drive to The Country Squire is still a great idea.

Stay for a tasting (Wednesday—Friday 12 – 9 p.m. and Saturdays 2-9 p.m.) or better yet remain for dinner and try one of the special Country Squire wines served only at the restaurant in one of the numerous dining rooms (including one with a tree right in the middle).  Reservations are a good idea.  Call 1-877-830-1602 or 910-296-1727. The food is classic, ample, and traditional, and the menu is found on the website at www.countrysquireinn.com.

Spend the night at the Country Squire Inn—a cozy motel actually linked to the restaurant via a sunken garden courtyard—or better yet, the Squires Guest House—you’ll think you’re in a Scottish pension, if only for one night or a getaway weekend.  The Squire is a favorite spot for weddings and other family gatherings and every January hosts the annual Robert Burns Supper (complete with bagpipes, kilts, and haggis). The best thing about The Country Squire is that you’ll want to go back to savor the atmosphere, walk the grounds, and enjoy both the food and their fine wines.